Howard Chang 2015.12.15
最佳紐約導遊
兒子最近和女朋友到紐約玩，繆詠華小姐送的新譯作，已到紐約玩第二遍，成為最佳導遊。
兒子最近和女朋友到紐約玩，繆詠華小姐送的新譯作，已到紐約玩第二遍，成為最佳導遊。
Q&A
Discovering New York, Beyond Manhattan
By EMILY BRENNAN
Published: May 29, 2013
Ever since Greg Young became one-half of “The Bowery Boys,” the podcast about New York City history he started with his friend Tom Meyers in 2007, visitors to the Big Apple have sought out his tourism recommendations. Forgoing Manhattan, Mr. Young, an amateur historian and Missouri native, sends them to the outer boroughs, to sites that are “offbeat but still truly unique to New York City and not overrun with crowds.” And they are outdoors, a plus for the summer ahead.
Benjamin Norman for The New York Times
A view of Manhattan from the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park.
Below are edited excerpts from a conversation with Mr. Young about historical sites that tell lesser-known tales about New York City.
Q.What’s one of the city’s best-preserved historical sites?
A. Roosevelt Island, in the middle of the East River, has so many treasures from the 19th century. Now a residential area, it once was where New York put its undesirable industries, its prisons, its workhouses, its mental hospitals. At the upper north corner is a great little remnant of the old mental hospital, the Lighthouse, built in the 1872. Legend has it an inmate had built a fort there to keep watch in case the British came back and took over New York.
On the south side is the ruins of a small pox hospital designed by James Renwick, who built St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the hospital looks like the most astounding Gothic castle you’ve ever seen, fenced in, all overgrowth and ruins. Next to it is the Franklin D. Roosevelt Four Freedoms Park, barely a year old, but in a way decades old. It was supposed to be built in the early 1970s, and the tram that takes you there from Manhattan was built in anticipation of it, the island itself renamed for it.
Before that, it was called Welfare Island — a very glamorous name and why no one ever went there — and was chosen specifically because of Roosevelt’s reaching out to the poor. But then New York City went bankrupt, so the park project was put on hold until recently. The city used the original plans by the architect Louis Kahn, so the park has a relic feel. It’s an absolutely gorgeous, strolling promenade monument, though not everyone is happy with the design. It’s a lot of concrete. And the views of Midtown are breathtaking.
Q.Any other places that combine views with history?
A. Many tourists take the Staten Island Ferry, which goes by the Statue of Liberty, but then they turn around and go back. But there’s a lot to do in Staten Island, the most impressive being Snug Harbor, which opened in 1833 as a community of retirement homes for elder sailors. It’s one of the largest examples of neo-Classical architecture in the United States. Very Greek in structure, it has this otherworldly feel to it. It operated as a retirement community until the 1960s, and after it sat empty for a couple of years, the city was going to rip it down.
Luckily it became a historical landmark. Now it’s a cultural hub, with a botanical garden, a couple of theaters and exhibits. But I say just go out and wander. You could spend an afternoon finding strange corners.
Q.Where do you go to discover New York’s cultural heritage?
A.Wave Hill in the Bronx. It’s the kind of big old grand manor that New York used to be studded with. Built in the 1840s, it was rented out to various people for the summer, including Theodore Roosevelt’s family when he was a boy. Starting in 1901, Mark Twain stayed out there a couple of years. This is the Mark Twain, white suit, in his glory days era.
He would sit outside and write, and during that period, he was mostly at work on his autobiography, which is coming out in parts right now. I’m such a Twain fanatic, so to go to the same place and feel the inspiration is incredible. It’s also an amazing oasis, like you’re in a Maxfield Parrish painting. It has a breathtaking view of Hudson River.
*****http://urbanpeek.com/tag/new-york/
This great photographic composition highlights the changes underwent to the New York City skyline in the past 137 years, the Manhattan city-scape is often hailed as having one of the greatest skylines in the world (other candidates include Hong Kong, Chicago and Singapore) and it’s interesting to see how it once looked back in the late 1800′s. From the city’s early immigration days, passing through the era of the Great Depression, then the old World Trade Center twin towers (where the 9/11 memorial is now located) and ending up in 2013 with the new One World Trade Center joining the silhouette…
流動的紐約
李靜睿
無
聊 的時候我喜歡看紐約地圖，我沒有見過一個城市這樣熱愛它的地圖，博物館裡賣著各種各樣印著地圖的紀念品：圍巾，領帶，名片夾，筆記本，甚至雨傘。紐約很少 下雨，我一直想象著在雨天裡遇到一個打著這樣雨傘的人，然後湊過去極其嚴肅正經地說：“能不能麻煩你把雨傘低下來給我看一眼，我想找找去布魯克林應該坐哪 條地鐵。”英劇《神探夏洛克》裡福爾摩斯破某個案子的關鍵是，他發現了犯罪團伙用以聯系傳遞密碼的工具是傳說中遊覽倫敦不可或缺的一本 地圖冊： London A to Z。我覺得這個故事如果換到紐約，他們需要的就不是一本地圖冊，僅僅一張地圖就夠了，比如BDE代表目標在第七大道五十三街，NQRS是時代廣場，ABCD是哥倫比亞圈，諸如此類，唯一的缺點也許是有時候會難以辨認同伴，走在紐約街頭的人，又有誰沒有一張紐約地圖呢？只是這張密碼表並非恆定不變，因為你手裡的地圖跟這個城市一樣永恆處於流動之中。剛到紐約時候我好幾次坐錯車，後來發現原來是因為朋友送我的那張地圖已經過期了，我以為會經過我家 的那兩班地鐵，一班被撤銷，一班換了線路。
Urban Peek的網站上有一個組圖叫“137年以來的紐約天際線”，一共有四張照片，從1876到2013年，最早的那張曼哈頓幾乎一覽無余，但漸漸地我們再也看不到曼哈頓的背面，因為越來越多高樓遮住了它。1988年時最顯著的建築是世貿雙塔，到了2013年，同樣的地方是尚未完工的自由塔。忘記在哪裡看到過 一個故事，9•11的時候有個住在附近的小男孩明明從電視上看到雙塔被撞毀的新聞，但他還是沒有辦法在現實世界裡理解為什麼他每天走路上學看到的那兩棟高 樓突然消失，也許因為當歷史過於迅猛地發生在眼前，我們跟不上它的思路，所以只能原地死機等待重啟。
今年是中央車站的百歲生日， 2月1日那天，車站內有些商店飯店把所有價格都調回1913年，人人都搶著去買五美分的咖啡、19美分的炸蝦和19美分的芝士蛋糕。我還記得在《布魯克林 有棵樹》裡，弗蘭西用五美分買了一根很好的骨頭給媽媽做湯，再用兩美分買到做湯用的蔬菜，包括一根幹癟的胡蘿卜、一根枯幹的芹菜與一個發軟的番茄。在《了 不起的蓋茨比》中，尼克只需要80美元，就能在長島租到一棟獨立的小木屋，隔壁是蓋茨比童話般的城堡，木屋四周開滿鮮花，窗口望出去還是今天的開發商們常 用的形容詞：無敵海景。
托馬斯•索威爾在《美國種族簡史》裡寫過，在19世紀到20世紀相交的移民狂潮時，紐約政府曾經做出規定，要求 每個新來的移民身上必須有25美元才能被批準進入美國。這個消息在曼哈頓東南端的猶太社區裡引起驚恐和憤怒，因為他們抵達美國時，大部分人身上的錢連這個 數字的三分之一都沒有，也就是100年後，富有的猶太人幾乎可以買下整個紐約。
然而一個城市往前狂奔的又豈止價格與財富，前段時間我重 看Edith Warton的《純真年代》，發現在19世紀70年代的紐約，40街以北就是遠郊，今天最有身份的上東區可能還是荒草叢生。《純真年代》裡的貴族都住在中 城第五大道，女主角艾倫在離婚後回到紐約，租的房子位於西23街，那是下等人才會住的下西城，所以她被所有人輕視，甚至包括其實深愛她的男主角。而今天的 紐約下城甚至被認為比上城更有魅力，因為它有一種混亂喧囂中的迷人氣息，更接近於我們心中流動的紐約。
越來越多人喜歡把北京和紐約對 比，但北京早已是一座幾乎看不出原來面目的城市，幾乎每一棟新的建築都要被大家集體嘲笑，而二環內那些僅有的四合院裡，住著身份財富語焉不詳的人。紐約的特別在於它不停前行，卻又不停回望，Brownstone依然是紐約的名片，磚牆外依然是曲曲折折的防火梯，住在裡面的依然是普普通通的紐約客。即使每一 個城市都在這樣無可逃避的時間流動之中，有些城市的流動只是如此無情地拋棄過往，而紐約，它走得再快，也沒有忘記挽住自己的舊時光。
（本文作者李靜睿，以前是記者，現在毫無目的地暫居紐約。微博名"阿花的伊薩卡島"，取自希臘詩人卡瓦菲斯的詩《伊薩卡島》：當你啟程，前往伊薩卡，但願你的道路漫長，充滿奇跡，充滿發現。文中所述僅代表她的個人觀點。）
東海的人與書 (11)
諾伯特、艾芙琳
前幾天才拿到紙本的《New York迷！紐約不完全攻略手冊》《解構。紐約：百老匯X特色建築X設計店家X公共藝術X博物館之旅》。
我只去過紐約市數天 (1992)，受同學康定怡夫婦(1976建築-1975音樂)的招待。
當然知道紐約是世界的文藝重鎮，還有那令馬蒂斯驚訝的陽光、胡適之先生的赫貞河……。
諾伯特、艾芙琳分別是東海工業設計系和食品科技系的畢業生 (約1994/1995)。他們合作的紐約導引書的確很可參考：
諾伯特、艾芙琳《解構。紐約：百老匯X特色建築X設計店家X公共藝術X博物館之旅》台北:創意市集，2013
諾伯特、艾芙琳《New York迷！紐約不完全攻略手冊》台北: :創意市集，2012
開始就介紹各區之不同.現在可以補充http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brooklyn
Bookshelf | A Grand Tour of Brooklynized Design
October 21, 2013
布鲁克林如何成为纽约设计神话
设计2013年10月21日
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In 2011, the writer Anne Hellman completed a gut renovation of a town house in the Cobble Hill neighborhood of Brooklyn, an experience that prompted her to write a book about the borough’s buildings and spaces. “I started thinking about other houses, and it quickly became 10 and more,” Hellman said. “There were so many stories. I started reaching out to architects. By fall I was contacting neighborhood associations in Brooklyn. It was a good two years.” In “Design Brooklyn: Renovation, Restoration, Innovation, Industry” (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $40), she profiles new and historical public and private spaces from all the neighborhoods in Brooklyn.Above is a sneak peek at some of the spaces she included in the book, which hits shelves Oct. 22 and features more than 150 photographs by Michel Arnaud. It’s packed with engaging back stories of Brooklyn’s homes, shops, restaurants and public institutions like Fort Greene Park and the Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center in Prospect Heights. There are also interviews with some of Brooklyn’s finest, including Mike Diamond from the Beastie Boys, who restored a brownstone not far from Hellman’s place in Cobble Hill. Because 256 pages wasn’t enough to showcase all of the grand design material she found, she started a blog last December to give voice to the 15 or so stories that were left on the cutting room floor and provide a platform for new Brooklyn design tales.
2011年，作家安妮·赫尔曼(Anne Hellman)完成了对布鲁克林圆石山一栋宅邸的内部翻修。这次经历激发她写了一本关于这个区的建筑和内部空间的书。“我开始思考其他房子，很快就有了 十多个可写的房子，”赫尔曼说，“有那么多故事可讲。我开始采访建筑师。到秋天的时候，我开始与布鲁克林的几个协会联系。那两年过得很愉快。”在《设计布 鲁克林：整修，修复，创新，产业》（Design Brooklyn: Renovation, Restoration, Innovation, Industry，Stewart, Tabori & Chang出版社出版，40美元）一书中，她简要描述了布鲁克林各地新的、旧的、公共以及私人的建筑。上图中展示了她在书中提到的一些建筑。该书将于10 月22日上架，其中包含米歇尔·阿尔诺(Michel Arnaud)拍摄的150多幅照片。书中还有很多有趣的幕后故事，是关于布鲁克林的很多家宅、店铺、餐馆以及公共机构，比如格林堡公园以及位于展望高地 的布鲁克林植物园游客中心。书中还有一些和布鲁克林名人的采访，包括小兽孩(Beastie Boys)乐队的迈克·迪亚蒙(Mike Diamond)，他刚刚修复了离赫尔曼在圆石山住所不远的一幢豪宅。因为256页不足以展示她找到的所有精彩的设计素材，所以去年12月她开了一个博 客，来讲述被删掉的约15个故事，为新的布鲁克林设计神话提供了一个平台。
Copyright © 2013 The New York Times Company. All rights reserved.
戴老師的兒子夫婦合作兩本書:
他們的blog: 紐約不完全攻略手冊: http://ntes.pixnet.net/blog
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諾伯特、艾芙琳《New York迷！紐約不完全攻略手冊》台北: PCuSER電腦人文化，2012
博客來書籍館>New York迷！紐約不完全攻略手冊
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